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Tying the Woolly Bugger Step by Step
 
The Woolly bugger is a very very famous fly. Originating in the United States it has formed the basis of many a pattern including my Lucky 7 lure
 
Although the original Woolly Bugger pattern was believed to have been created by Russell Blessing, a Pennsylvania fly tier as early as 1967 to resemble a hellgrammite, or Dobson  fly nymph, its precise origin is unknown, but is clearly an evolution of the Woolly Worm which itself is a variation—intentional or not—of the English "Palmer" style of fly, which dates back to the time of Issac Walton and beyond.
 
The fly can be tied to represent small fish, nymphs, in fact almost anything. By varying the colours of the materials used and the size of hook the tier can experiment endlessly.
 
This variation is tied to represent a dragonfly nymph, but on its day can be dealdy fished higher in the water with a fast retrieve.
 
Dressing
 
Hook:-  Long shank lure size 18 to 14
Silk:-    Uni Thread, 8/0 hot orange.
Tail:-     Olive Green Marabou
Flash:-  2 strands olive crystal flash
Rib:-     Fine silver wire
Body:-  Green and black varigated chenille
Body Hackle :-  Soft olive green cock saddle
Head hackle :-   Optional , Contrasting colour of soft cock hackle
 
 
Attach the silk and make a neat underbody of silk. This is very important when tying with chenille as it has a tendency to slip when tightened.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Select a bunch of olive green marabou. tie in on top of the hook and take the silk forwards and back to the bend.
 
Make sure the marabou is tied down tightly
 
Tie in a rib of fine silver wire, (It is not evident in this picture as it is hiding behind the head of the vice)
 
Build a smooth underbody
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tie in two strands of pale olive green crystal flash in each side of the tail
 
Complete the tying down of the tail material.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tie in a strand of varigated chenille.
 
When tying in chenille it is easiest to strip away a portion of the fluff from the core and tie in by the inner thread. Be careful when doing this and don't twist the chenille too much as it can come unravelled and all the fibres fall out!
 
If you think the chenille is a little loose simple twist it with a pair of hackle pliers, in the right direction to tighten the core. This will also spread the fibres and give a nicer effect when wound.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Wrap the chenille forwards in tight touching turns and secure at the head.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tie in a prepared cock saddle hackle.
 
Strip away all the fluff from the base and choose a hackle with a nice fast taper to ensure that the hackle is larger at the head.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Wind the hackle from the front to the back in close turns. Take 2 or three turns at the head if a second hackle is not going to be used. This fly has around 7 turns of hackle down the body.
 
Bring the wire rib forwards in the opposite direction to trap the hackle and protect it against the fish's teeth
 
If you forget to wind your rib in the opposite direction it will still secure the hackle if you follow one simple rule.
If you use 7 turns of hackle, then only use 5 turns of ribbing. this will ensure that the ribbing crosses the hackle at least twice.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The finished fly